When it comes to innovation in watchmaking, Richard Mille enjoys an indisputable legacy as a true and enduring pioneer. Among countless groundbreaking innovations, the brand’s exceptional knowledge of working with sapphire clearly sets it apart. The crystalline allure and phenomenal durability of the special material are a cornerstone of Richard Mille’s commitment to creating timepieces that push boundaries.
Seeing the Possibilities
As little as a decade ago, the use of sapphire in watchmaking, beyond applications in crystal glass, was still largely unchartered territory. Recognizing the immense potential of this material, Richard Mille undertook an ambitious project to fully unravel the prized qualities of this distinctive gem. Rather than crystal components, designers envisioned a whole watch case sculpted entirely from a block of sapphire.
Why sapphire? The appeal of this material lies in its combination of functionality and aesthetics. With a rank of nine on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness (just behind diamond), sapphire is phenomenally resilient against impact and scratches while offering a smooth, warm, tactile surface. The material’s brilliance and transparency provide a clear window into the intricate workings of the watch movement, allowing every minute detail to be appreciated and admired, from multiple perspectives.
Surpassing the Challenges
To transform the vision of a watch case sculpted entirely of sapphire into reality, Richard Mille roped in Swiss manufacturer of synthetic sapphire products, Stettler AG. To create such a case, a manufacturing process called the Kyropoulos method had to be used. In this process, aluminum oxide is heated to over 2,000 degrees Celsius, with a small sapphire seed crystal initiating growth. Over the span of a few weeks, this seed will “grow” into a sapphire block weighing several dozen kilograms.
At this stage, the raw and unfinished sapphire block begins its journey to greatness. The iconic tonneau shape of a Richard Mille places unimaginable complexity on the machining and finishing process. Sapphire is, additionally, an exceptionally hard and durable material, with a hardness value in the range of 2,000 Vickers. For this reason, every individual case requires over 1,000 hours of careful milling and polishing, before it may be inspected and sent to the atelier. Such is Richard Mille’s obligation to deliver on perfection.
This unwavering commitment to accept nothing less is evident in the RM 056 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Sapphire. During its unveiling in 2012, the stunning timepiece was the first in the world to feature a fully-transparent sapphire case. In showcasing the intricate workings of a mechanical masterpiece, the RM 056 stunned the horological world with its bold declaration of how the impossible could be achieved—with a healthy dose of ingenuity, collaboration and hard work.
As is customary, Richard Mille would raise the bar it had set. Three years later, in 2015, the brand debuted a watch with a colored sapphire case—the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire. Unlike colorless sapphires, the production of colored sapphires requires the infusion of metal oxides into the sapphire’s crystalline structure during the growth stage. This may sound simple but the reality involves new layers of unimaginable complexity.
Engineers constantly faced the challenge of maintaining uniform color across batches, as even minute variations in temperature or growth rate could result in uneven discoloration and bubble formation. Such persistence and vigilance would pay off spectacularly. Richard Mille would, yet again, dazzle the watchmaking world with colored sapphire cases in striking hues of blue, green and pink.
Transforming How We Perceive Watches
More than a technical feat, the fusion of sapphire into horology has literally changed the way the world looks at a wristwatch. Sapphire radiates light as it channels it across the case, illuminating once-hidden mechanical beauty for all to appreciate. Whether it is the flawless purity of the RM 056 or the chromatic intensity of the RM 07-02, each timepiece challenges our perception of what a watch can be, redefining the boundaries of artistry and technology.
The savoir faire Richard Mille displays in shaping sapphire is testimony to the brand’s commitment to innovation. Through groundbreaking techniques once deemed impossible, the company has earned a well-deserved reputation for turning the impossible into reality. Each sapphire timepiece reflects this journey of discovery and exploration into the unknown.
A Tribute to Craftsmanship
Richard Mille’s odyssey with sapphire is, above all, the fusion of cutting-edge technology with timeless artistry and craftsmanship. In a world that often clings to tradition, Richard Mille will continue forging a path as an innovator unafraid to challenge conventions. Each sapphire timepiece is not simply a watch but a horological milestone, proving that the future of watchmaking is luminous, unbreakable and in good hands.
